Versatile and sumptuous, aubergine soaks up flavours like a sponge. Lindsey Bareham has three delightful ways to get the most from its fleshy goodness

Aubergine is one of my favourite foods. I often cook them in various ways to keep boxed up in the fridge for quick mid-week suppers. I halve them lengthways, cut a narrow lattice and roast them until tender to pile with, say, diced tomato, capers and feta or ragu (see recipes). I spread them with pesto, cover with grated Parmesan and grill until golden. I might roast or grill them whole, the pale flesh pounded into a garlicky purée with lemon and olive oil, a hint of cumin and spoonful of tahini to swipe with strips of hot toasted pitta bread. This is a favourite with lamb or chicken kebabs. I also griddle or roast long, oiled slices until floppy for impromptu faux lasagne, bruschetta, salads or sandwiches.

Grilled Aubergine with Feta Cheese
I walked past this sumptuous yet simple way of serving a whole aubergine at my favourite restaurant on the Greek island of Lemnos. Harry, the chef, sadly no longer with us, wouldn’t give me the recipe but I’m pleased with my version. I sometimes make it for one with a lone aubergine.

Serves 4
Prep: 10 min
Cook: 30 min
4 medium or 2 large aubergine, about 800g in total
1-2 finely chopped garlic cloves
1 lemon
5-6tbsp fruity olive oil
Handful finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
100g Greek feta cheese

Heat the overhead grill. Run a small, sharp knife round the base of the stalk, just cutting through the skin. Make 4 evenly spaced shallow cuts from the first cut down the length of the aubergine. Cook under the grill, turning every 5-7 minutes, to cook evenly until the aubergine feels soft but before the skin hardens over sagging flesh. Transfer to plates or a white platter and use a fork and knife to deftly lift and remove the skin, leaving the stalk. Slash the aubergine from the stalk to the end without cutting it in half so it flops open like a book. Scatter with garlic, a generous squeeze of lemon juice, a splash of olive oil and most of the parsley. Crumble feta over the top and finish with the last of the parsley.

Aubergine Conchiglie
Only one plump aubergine is needed for this store cupboard saviour, a wonderful recipe to whip up when inspiration is flagging. The aubergine is diced and gently fried, ending up juicy and creamy in a tomato sauce with a hint of earthy cumin and chilli heat, finished with molten bobbles of creamy feta and fresh coriander. Conchiglie, the shell pasta, is perfect here as it collects some of the sauce, giving each mouthful a rich delivery. Simple but very moreish, you can reheat it perfectly in one pan, adding a splash liquid with extra cheese and coriander at the last moment.

Serves 2
Prep: 15 min
Cook: 30 min
1 onion, about 75g
1 chopped garlic clove
2tbsp olive oil
1 aubergine, 300g
¼tsp chilli flakes
½tsp ground cumin
400g tin chopped tomatoes
100ml red wine or water
1tsp honey
150g conchiglie rigate
2tbsp chopped coriander
100g Greek feta cheese
Splash best olive oil

Halve, peel and chop the onion. Crack the garlic, flake away the skin and finely chop. Heat the oil in a spacious frying/sauté pan and stir in onion and garlic. Reduce the heat and cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes or until the onion looks glassy. Quarter the aubergine lengthways, halve the quarters lengthways and cut into chunky dice. Stir it into the onion, tossing regularly, cooking for about 15 minutes until juicy and somewhat wilted. Add chilli and cumin, stirring for a couple of minutes, then add the tomatoes, salt and pepper and red wine, if you have some on the go, or water. Stir in the honey. Simmer steadily, stirring often, while you cook the pasta – about 10 minutes. Drain the pasta and stir it into the aubergine. Add the coriander and crumble the feta cheese over the top. Stir and serve with a splash of best olive oil.

Idle Moussaka
This is lazy moussaka, made with a lamb ragu piled over roast aubergine halves nudged together in gratin dishes. Slices of Greek feta are piled over the top, then burnished and turned molten under the grill. It needs no accompaniment but becomes a feast when served with Greek salad.

Serves 4
Prep: 25 min
Cook: 45 min
4 medium aubergine
2tbsp olive oil
1 onion
2 carrots
1 small fennel bulb
2 garlic cloves
1 bay leaf
500g minced lamb
1tbsp flour
150ml red wine
300m chicken stock
2 vine tomatoes, peeled and chopped
200g Greek feta

Turn the oven to 200°C/gas mark 6. Trim and halve the aubergine lengthways. Cut a diagonal lattice, about 1cm deep and wide and quickly paint with olive oil. Place on a shallow roasting tin. Roast for about 25 min, checking after 20, until the lattice sags, and the aubergine is soft. Meanwhile, halve, peel and finely chop the onion. Scrape and finely chop the carrot. Finely chop the fennel and garlic. Heat remaining oil in a spacious sauté/frying pan and stir in onion and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, over medium heat for 5 minutes, then stir in fennel and carrot. Season with salt, cook for a further 5 minutes, then add the meat. Increase the heat slightly, stirring as the meat browns. Stir in the flour until disappeared, then add the wine. Bubble up and add the stock and the peeled and chopped tomatoes. Simmer, stirring occasionally to avoid sticking, for about 25 minutes until the liquid is reduced and sauce-like, and all the veg is tender. Remove lid and simmer until thick. Season to taste. Place aubergine, nudged together, in suitable gratin dishes. Spoon over the sauce. Cover with slices of feta. Cook under pre-heated grill until feta is golden and molten.

You’ll find more of Lindsey’s recipes at lindseybareham.com and in her latest paperback One Pot Wonders (Penguin/Michael Joseph).

This article is from Idler #108.

A Drink with the Idler

Next week’s guest on “A Drink with the Idler” is the author and economist Guy Standing, who will be talking about how to revive the education industry, which today serves commercial interests rather than its teachers and students. That’s Thursday 5 March at 6pm. Book tickets here.
It’s FREE to subscribers – otherwise £7.50.

Subscribe to the Idler here and get 12% off the shop price plus a FREE copy of Idle Thoughts by Tom Hodgkinson, worth £8.95.

Subscribers may comment. Please add your idle thoughts using the box below

How to Live Like a Stoic

The March/April 2026 issue of the Idler (#108) is out today – available in Waitrose, Smiths and TG Jones.

Click here for your nearest stockist.